WHERE TO STAY in the HELFORD ESTUARY

The Helford River is the soft side of the Lizard, far removed from the ragged cliffs and treeless heath. Here you can find secluded villages, sub-tropical gardens and waterside taverns where you can relax and watch the river flow.

Take one look at the mysterious winding inlet of Frenchman's Creek, and you'll know why Daphne du Maurier used it as the setting for her romantic tale of piracy and smuggling. The creek is best reached by a footpath, indeed much of the area can only be enjoyed on foot. Explore by car and you'll get mere tantalising glimpses of this tranquil wooded river-world.

Peaceful villages stowaway in the folds of this landscape. Explore Helford, with its riverside inn; the ancient churches of Mawgan, Manaccan and St Anthony; and Gweek, once a Roman port, today a charming clutter of boatyards and quays, and home to the renowned Seal Sanctuary. From the pretty villages of Constantine and Mawgan, you can meander down gladed footpaths to creeks such as Porth Navas or Polwheveral with their oyster beds and yacht moorings.

Strike north from Mawnan Smith to the lush gardens of Penjerrick. or south for the sub-tropical gardens sloping gently to the river at Glendurgan and Trebah. Take a stroll along the shore of Durgan, a tiny hamlet which lived on fishing for centuries, or simply pass an idle hour at Helford Passage watching the boats coming and going. At the Argal and College Waterpark, you can enjoy good coarse fishing, a variety of watersports and excellent amenities with picnic and play areas for the children.